My BMW just rolled over 200000 miles, and I realized that the 200k mile mark is a defining point in a car’s life. A vehicle that’s survived for 200,000 miles has been through a lot, and came out on top.
So at this point, I’m dealing with problems as they arise and doing normal maintenance. I need to finish budgeting exactly what I want this car to be when all is said and done. I think the final build plan will end up in the USD $5k-$10k range. For not, I’ve just been performing routine maintenance and keeping costs low.
Have you crossed the 200,000 mark? How many miles have you racked up on your daily driver?
Author: Driven Daily
My first car, a used Dodge Neon, ended its life with 233,000 miles on it with the original engine still running fine. In fact, the only reason I had to get rid of it because there was a leak that allowed rain-water in – really bad mildew ensued.
I have a bimmer 328i 1996 with 270000 miles. Same engine, great car. Just make sure replacing oil every 3000 miles and will go forever.
I own a 1997 BMW 540I with 202,000 and it’s still going strong, runs like a scared rabbit. Thanks to synthetic oil the engine and tranny are in great shape and I’m hoping for another 200,000.
BMW E36 93 318i just crossed 150,000 miles put a new water pump, upper radiator hose, and new belts on this weekend runs great, now to reset the engine check light…
my 94 BMW 318is has 182k miles and still runs great. I think it will last quite some time seeing how it really doesnt show being so warn out. i did have to replace the alternator, and my shocks are going bad but for the most part i cant complain 🙂
My car, a 1994 Mazda Miata has a mind blowing 234K miles on it. Still starts up every time, drives and shifts fine. The only problem is a little bit of oil burning. I know your going to ask, so yes all of the VIN numbers match on the car. That means no engine swaps and no newer tranny! I had a friend who raced a miata in SCCA SSM for two years on the stock motor with 220K miles. If thats not a tribute to the longevity of these cars… I don’t know what is.
(insert shameless self promotion ftw- my latest project has been a blog devoted to this little car)
When I received my latest S130, it had a tick over 200k. Car was running on 4 cylinders most of the drive home. Car now burns a bit of oil, but has gotten me reliably around with probably less than $150 in maintenance. Just replaced the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder. That’s the most I’ve spend thus far on any problem, at a whopping $45.
My WRX was bought at 115k, now it has 124k 6 months later. My last Civic was bought with 95k, sold with 130k. My Mustang had 122k when I bought it, sold at 145k, my first civic had 107k when I bought it, 140k when sold and my ’72 Bug, not sure, it only went to the 10’s of thousands. haha
Hoping to keep the WRX for awhile. My dad’s WRX was bought brand new in 2003 and it now has 190ish. Still runnin’ strong.
I’ve got a 1993 N/A Mr2 with 193,000+ miles on the clock.
Here’s what I’ve done.
1. Tires. I’ve experimented with a few, but definitely am a fan of Yokohama and Dunlop Star Specs.
2. Wheels. When I bought the vehicle, they came with aftermarket 17s. Heavy ones. I found cheap autocross wheels that were similar in size to OEM, but much lighter than the OEM wheels. That was very beneficial.
3. Brakes. I did upgrade to braided steel lines because, my DD is also used for driving canyons, and yes, the brake pedal was a bit firmer. But, more importantly, I upgraded the pads (Carbotech), got new rotors (cheap Napa blanks), and put in fresh brake fluid.
4. Suspension. I bought the car already with aftermarket springs. FAR too low and rough for daily driving. I upgraded to the ’93+ later springs (raised ride height, back to the OEM suspension geometry, slightly smoother ride), and more importantly, took out the Bilsteins for adjustable Konis put on full soft. Suspension bushings replaced. Tie rods replaced. Power steering fluid replaced. Now the suspension is OEM, but adjustable.
5. Radiator. 200k on the clock. Want to make it last longer? Replace with OEM, NOT aftermarket. I learned that the hard way.
6. Lights. There’s no downside to an upgrade in visibility. Just headlights. No fogs or anything else.
7. Tranny fluid. Redline works best for MR2s. But still, a maintenance item.
8. Intake. Came with aftermarket. Went back to OEM airbox and got an air filter from Amsoil.
9. Engine oil. I swear by Amsoil. While you’re at it. Fuel filter too.
10. Driving habit. This isn’t a 2000+ or later vehicle. It’s a 1993. What does that mean? Let it warm up. Left the tranny warm up before fast shifting. No aggressive braking within the first 15 minutes of a drive.
My 2005 Suburban is at 180K and going strong. We love it. We will keep it until it dies, and then put a new motor in it if we have to. Four kids, and all.